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Historic Stitching: Vintage Crochet Made New

This is a post that, in its original form, appeared for Jordana Paige’s blog.  The rights reverted back to me, and in light of the publication of Time Traveler

Photocredit: Sockupied
My Historically inspired socks

, I thought it was a timely blog post.  I’ve made updates and edits to this post, as time has reflected.

One of my favorite things to do when I get a little bit of time
(between teaching crochet and knit, designing, and writing) is to peruse
historical patterns.  It’s a fortunate
function of our digital age that the casual crocheters or knitter can, with a
click of their mouse, find a wealth of historical magazines online.
Now, I will not claim that reading historical patterns is
for everyone.  For one, half of my
digital collection is in French and German, and it can sometimes be a little
challenging to translate patterns.  And
even in English, patterns can trip the casual reader up, using the same name
for different stitches, or using terms that are no longer commonly used.
There exists a wealth of resources where you can find
historical patterns online.  To get you
started, I have listed some of my favorite resources:
http://archive.org/
(search knitting or crochet)
If you’re willing to do some digging in other languages, there’s a few other resources I can recommend:
http://gallica.bnf.fr/
(French, search tricoter and crochet)
http://www.collectionscanada.gc.ca
(Canadian, search knitting, crochet, or tricoter)
When you go to any of them, just search “crochet” or
“knitting” or “needlework.”  You’ll find
tons of patterns, though unlike modern resources, knitting, crochet and needlework
were not so sharply divided.  In the same
magazine you might find a pattern that calls for use of crochet, knitting and
sewing.  I think that’s half of the fun.
If you are willing to squint at some old etchings and
problem solve when things don’t quite go right, it can be a fun way to get a
glimpse of the past.  And maybe you’ll find some new patterns to love!
Below, I’ve written out two edgings that I adapted from “Le
Crochet, Album de Travaux de Cousine Claire.” 
These come from page 16-18 of the book, in the section titled “Franges
Et Dentelles a Glands.”  While the
original patterns served as an influence, I couldn’t help but add my own twist!
 

Tiers and Hills
Tiers and Hills
Ch 24 +1
Sample with original pattern.
Ch 2, sk 1st st, hdc all sts afterward. Turn
Ch 3 (counts as dc), *ch 2, sk 2, dc into next st. Repeat
from * until end. Turn
Ch1, sc into every st. Turn
Ch1, sc into 1st st. ch 8, sk next 7 sts, sc into next st.
Repeat until end. Turn
Ch 1, sc 11 times into ch 8 space. Repeat until all ch 8
spaces are worked. Break yarn and turn.
Sk 1st 5 sts, join yarn to 6th sc. *Ch 8, sk next 10 sts, sc
in 11th st, repeat from * once more. Turn, * sc 11 sts in ch 8 space, repeat
from * once more. Break yarn and turn.
Sk 1st 5 sts, join yarn to 6th sc. Ch 8, sk next 10 sts, sc
in 11th st. Turn, sc 11 sts in ch 8 space. Break yarn and turn.
Repeat steps 7 & 8 over next 3 ch bumps. Continue until
entire edging is worked.
 

Lacy Chevron
Lacy Chevron
Ch multiple of 7

Sample with original pattern.
Hdc in each st. Turn.
Ch 2 (counts as hdc) *hdc in 1st st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc
in next st, ch 2, dc in same st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, hdc in next st. Repeat
from * until end of row. Turn.
Ch 1, *sc in 1st hdc, sc twice in ch 2 sp, sc 4 in next ch 2
sp, sc 2 in next ch 2 sp, sc in hdc. Repeat from * until end of row. Turn.

Ch 1, *sc2tog in next 2 sts. Sc in next 2 sts. 2 sc in next
st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. Repeat from * until all sts are
worked.

Inspirations and Influences: Time Traveler

Photocredit: Sockupied

I’ve got a new pattern that released this last week, and you might have caught a glimpse of it as I hinted at it’s existence.  Time Traveler is a pattern based off of my love of historical knitting and crochet patterns, and I couldn’t be happier to have it released into the general public.  Let me tell you, for all the sock’s simplicity, it took me forever to figure out how to get the lace to wrap around the ankle without breaking the stitch pattern anywhere.  Absolute ages.  But it all works now: and I’ve done all the hard thinking for you!

Let me let you in on a little secret: every once and a while I like to pay homage to my favorite authors with my patterns.  One Salt Sea is a homage to Seanan McGuire’s book by the same name (which in turn is a homage to Shakespeare, but I digress).  Time Traveler is a tip of the hat to Diana Gabaldon, whose Outlander series features a time traveling heroine.  I have a few other patterns whose design sub names followed that name-scheme, but many of the names don’t make it to publication.  I have to admit, when I named Time Traveler nearly a year and a half ago, I didn’t know that the Outlander Series would be in the process of being made into a TV series.

Photocredit: Sockupied

There’s so much I love about how these socks turned out: the picot hem, which I love (and would like to use more!), the way the lace seamlessly travels into the rest of the sock (which, dear readers, you don’t know how hard that was!), and the deep plummy color of the yarn.  I love the way the heels are worked, the way the toe expansion forms – quite simply, I adore the socks so much.  The Hazel Knits yarn is a really good choice for this pattern: you need a sturdier sock yarn in order for the lace to block out and show well.  Something that is softer (but more fuzzy) doesn’t quite show how the increases and decreases interplay to make the lace what it is.

Later in the week I’ll be talking about historical patterns, and a little bit about the not-so-easy process of reading them and mining them for ideas.

Until then, enjoy!

Photocredit: Sockupied

Time Travler

Time Traveler released early last week, but I’m only now getting to talk and share it with you!  It’s a pattern based off of a historical knitting pattern (which is a secret love of mine).  But, I digress!  Let me give you the deets:

Time Traveler
by Jennifer Raymond

Published in: Sockupied, Fall 2014
Craft: Knitting
Category: Feet / Legs → Socks → Mid-calf
Published: July 2014
Suggested yarn: Hazel Knits Artisan Sock
Yarn weight: Fingering / 4 ply (14 wpi)
Gauge: 32 stitches and 46 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Needle size: US 0 – 2.0 mm
Yardage: 400 yards (366 m)
Sizes available: 7 (8½, 9½)” (18 [21.5, 24] cm) foot circumference and 8½ (9¾, 10¾)” (21.5 [25, 27.5] cm) long from back of heel to tip of toe; foot length is adjustable.

Jennifer updated a stitch pattern from a vintage book to create a new twist in simple lace socks. The zigzag effect is found in many vintage patterns, but also feels right at home in these everyday socks.

Buy Here: http://www.interweavestore.com/sockupied-fall-2014-emag-for-mac-and-pc

Packing: in which I try to balance clothes and yarn. Spoiler: Yarn Wins.

I’m getting ready to wrap things up before I leave tomorrow, again.  This time it isn’t for work – I’m going on a cruise, to the Mediterranean with my family.  Mr. Turtle, who has run out of vacation days, will not be coming along.  So if you get in touch with Tinking Turtle in the next 2-ish weeks or so, you’ll have to make do with him.

I, meanwhile, am in the middle of a very sort of contained chaos, a carefully crafted tornado of productivity.  I know this pace can’t be maintained for long (and I wouldn’t want it to be, frankly), but I wanted to get a few designs that are due the days after I get home off now, so I don’t have to worry about them on the cruise.  I also want room to bring home souvenirs, so the bag I’m working on for an issue of Annie’s that is due to be mailed off the day I get home is getting done before I leave, darnit.

As I mentioned before, my hands may very well fall off.

A separate matter, from the general packing, is how much yarn I need to bring and in what quantities.  Normally this is a source of much angst, but my options this time are rather naturally limited by the upcoming designs I need to work on: namely, a lot.  The yarn list reads as a sort of “yarn superstar” of the knitting world.

I have the Knitting Boutique’s new superwash yarn line in a couple of different weights, for two different designs due this fall.  I have a half-finished project in Dragonfly Fibers, for a collaboration I’ve also got due this fall.  I have two different sock weight yarns: one by Anzula (the blue and the gold) and the other by Hedgehog Fibers (the grey and the rust) – both yarns for Sockupied designs that are due the end of August-ish.  Also are some extra skeins, also from Anzula, for a design I’m working on in my (heh) spare time.  I also am considering one other quick project… which I know is just crazy because I already have more than enough to keep my occupied even if I was home and NOT on a cruise.

I think I might give The Yarn Harlot a run for her money when it comes to overpacking yarn.  And somehow, I still need to fit clothes.

I guess it’s the cost of being self employed: I’ll be bringing my work with me.  You can see how torn up about it I am.  *grins*

If you’ve got any burning questions for notes for before I leave, you’ve got until about 11 tomorrow (Saturday) to get them to me.  After that, I’ll be on a plane, and then a boat, happily taking a break before life becomes crazy again.

Got any advice for packing?  I’d love to know your strategies!

How old is Tinking Turtle?

Trying to figure out Tinking Turtle’s birthday is a little harder than knowing a child, pet’s, or even my own birthday.  Unlike a child, which has a day where they spring into the universe, (mostly) fully formed, my business’s birthday is not such a defined thing.  Is it the day I sold my first pattern?  When I got my first business cards?  The first class I taught?  I’ve been thinking about this , as this last weekend was Fibre Space’s birthday which they celebrated with a big bash.  Webs, the largest LYS in the nation, is celebrating it’s 40th year.  Woolwinders, another yarn store at which I teach, is celebrating it’s third reopening, as it’s been acquired by Amy, it’s new owner.   While all those places had physical openings, Tinking Turtle has never had a storefront.

According to Welcoming Spirit Home, there is a tradition among the Dagara of West Africa that a child’s birth isn’t celebrated when they are born into the world, nor even at conception, but at the moment when the child becomes an idea in the mother’s mind.

So I got thinking about Tinking Turtle’s birthday, and different moments that lead to what it is today.

My first teaching of knitting and crochet (in a formal class), was when I was 16; I taught knitting as part of a crafting afternoon activity to campers.  I wince a little at those early students (I could do much better by them now), but learned a lot about how students learn, what keeps people’s (and children’s!) attention, and the basics of how to break down a task into smaller bits.  I can still remember those hot summer days sitting on the camp green with our class supplies, talking, stitching, and passing the time as many handicrafters do, with friends.

My first pattern began the summer during my first job after college, when I discovered that my time was my own after work.  Vaguely stunned by the lack of schoolwork and with the security of a regular paycheck, I splurged on yarn that I wouldn’t have been able to afford as a student, and began my first sock design.  As the summer wore on, the socks steadily grew, and Mr. Turtle (then my boyfriend), began telling me that I could sell my patterns.  It would take nearly a year and a half later to sell my first design, and nearly two before I sold that particular sock design.  Still, I can remember those summer evenings sitting under the fan on the back porch, listening to crickets and passing cars, those socks growing stitch by stitch.

Summer was when I started the earlier iteration of Tinking Turtle under the name J’s Creations, and began navigating the process of creating a business out of nothing.  Summer was also when we incorporated Tinking Turtle as an LLC from its’ previous iteration as
a sole proprietorship – a step that signaled that the business I had started on a shoestring budget was doing quite well.

So perhaps Tinking Turtle’s birth-time can be determined: if not an exact day then a time, when the dreaming of this entity began to grow into the idea it is now.

Catching Up

We’re on the second, and final, week of the String Theory camp.  Two days ago was our messy day, again, and it’s interesting to see how the class ran last time vs. this time.  While the age range of the last camp and this camp are the same, the average age of the kids is wildly different.  It might also help this time I’m more comfortable in the space.

I also can’t believe it’s our last day!

One of the campers in the class yesterday proudly came in showing off her fingerless glove.  For a moment, I thought she’d snuck her project home to work on.  Apparently she had went to the craft store and bought a needle and yarn so she could practice
at home – and had been making more progress at home after she left for the camp.  She was so proud and excited to show me.  Take a look!

Most students are also done with their project bags… I’m a little bit nervous about filling the time on our last day.  Oh, well.  It’s great that they got so much done.

These next five weeks are going to be doozies.  I’m leaving in just over a week for a cruise with my family (a sort of last-hurrah before my younger siblings are all sucked into their respective graduate and undergraduate studies).  It will be a little bit of a working vacation for me – in addition to getting ready for Rhinebeck in October, I  have 4 (count them), 4! designs due by mid-September.  It’s a good problem to have, but I’m going to be working my hands off.  Luckily, two of them are knit, and the other two are crochet, so I’m hoping to save my hands.

Speaking of Rhinebeck – are you planning on going?  I’ve got a variety of classes I’m offering: everything from my very favorite Ooops class to much more advanced classes.  You should check them out!

A Number of Housekeeping Items

This next week (July 21-25), I’m going to be running the second session of my daycamp, String Theory, with Montgomery County College.  If you were thinking about signing up, it is already full, although there is a wait list.  There is a third week of the camp running from July 28th to August 1st.  If you are over the age of 16, this camp is not for you, sorry.  Kids only.

BUT!

This means that I have some mornings and evenings free.  If you have missed me terribly since I’ve moved, or you’ve been needing help with that tricky sweater, or you were looking for special instruction of one sort or the other, shoot me an email.  I’d be happy to set up a private lesson with you!

I’ve been using this break week to work on a number of things I haven’t been able to get to.  Oh, the amoun
t of design subs I’ve gotten off this week… I can’t even tell you.

Meanwhile I’ve been working on a few designs that I’m releasing on my own or in conjunction with a few other parties.  Bill Bryson’s A Short History of Nearly Everything has been my good friend.  I love listening to books on tape when I’m doing some marathon knitting/crochet, but I prefer non-fiction.  If you’ve got suggestions for any good non-fiction to listen to on audio, let me know.  I’ve nearly run out of Bryson’s backlist.  Other non-fiction pieces I’ve really enjoyed: The Disappearing Spoon and The History of Hand Knitting have been good.  I’ll give preference to science/history/textile stuff, since that’s where most of my interest is, but I’ll take nearly any recommendation.

Also, anyone have any good recomendations for workout videos?  All this traveling has make a consistent bike schedule really hard, and I gotta get in some other way to move.  I’d love some dance based stuff, and I’m looking for a good balance that includes a lot of stretching.  Yoga based things need not apply – yoga (even though I have many people who have been telling me how wonderful it is) and I don’t get along.  I think I really need to take some good beginner classes.

Michael and I borrowed a corded drill this week so week could hang our shelving units.  Boy, what a difference it makes!

This little shelf is perfect for putting detergent and other laundry supplies on.

Then, we got up a shelf in the dinning room:

The perfect place to put teacups and other pretty display items – where the cat’s can’t knock them over.
And also in the Laundry Room, some extra shelves:
Let me tell you, getting these up isn’t easy.

What a difference it makes to not only have the shelves and other things up off the floor, but to also get things off the floor by putting things in them.  We’ve nearly got all the different “public” places in the house under control.

Dyeing with Food Coloring – A Great (And Safe!) Alternative to Commercial Dyes

I’ve had a couple of people ask how I did the food coloring dyeing with the children in my camp.  This post is how I went about it, which is by no means an exact recipe.

First, I filled buckets with tap water and vinegar.  As a note, vinegar worked but many of the campers complained of the smell.  Next year I plan to try citric acid.  I used, per quarter gallon, about one or two slugs.  The roving (you could also use yarn, as long as it’s 100% wool) was then soaked in the solution for about 15 minutes.

The roving was then removed and squeezed dry.

I used paper and then saran wrap over it to cover the tables, which prevented dye from getting everywhere.

Using the leftover vinegar water, I poured small amounts into plastic cups, and then added the food coloring.  I used super-concentrated gel food coloring, which worked really well.  The children used sponges to apply the food coloring – one sponge to a color.

Results came out best when the children didn’t get their roving overly wet – just damp enough that the color adhered to the places they were applying.  They used the sponges like stamps, soaking up color and then “stamping” it onto the roving.
 When the children were done applying color, we wrapped the roving in a long piece of saran wrap, which then went into a freezer-safe bag.  Freezer safe bags are much sturdier, so they held up better to the next step.

 When I got home, I took the roving, still in the plastic bag, and microwaved the roving for 2 minutes, allowed it to cool, then microwaved it for another 2 minutes.

 After the roving had cooled, the piece was removed from the plastic bag and the seran wrap.  The roving was gently rinsed in cool water, gently squeezed dry (to prevent felting) and then was hung to dry.

 There was no running of dye, and the colors were very bright.

Takeaway:  Sometimes colors do not show true until after microwaving.  This was a source of concern for campers; try to explain that the colors will “settle” once they are fixed to the fibers.
Some people recommend using sugarless cool-aide (as it already has the dye AND the citric acid in the powder).  I preferred doing it this way: the food coloring provided a larger range of colors and the ability to control more variables.

The Restorative Properties of a Vacation

The first week of summer camp raced by, and last night I took a break with some friends to teach them how to work on socks.  We had wine, brownies, good food and better conversation.

After a breakneck week I’m taking a day to just breathe.  In addition to the camp I was kept hopping by a variety of design submissions that I’m getting ready to send off.  Right before I left for Yosemite, two weeks ago, I was feeling burned out.  I was missing sending out design subs because I just couldn’t bring myself to come up with anything that was of any merit.  I was getting a little worried about how design subs, which are one of my favorite things to work on, were becoming a task.

Me, working on the drawing.

While I was in Yosemite I didn’t pick up my knitting once.  As I climbed on the train for a three-day ride home, I felt sure I could get the urge to knit.  And then… I didn’t knit or crochet once.  I read and napped.  I took multiple naps in a day, and then slept through the night – something I’ve only done when I’m sick.

I did do other crafty stuff – including a drawing that I spent several hours on.  I don’t normally pull on my art classes from Highschool very often, but I got the urge to do a perspective drawing of the train we were on, based off of a picture I took (above).  I made it for our most wonderful train hostess, who was amazing in the face of a late train and grumpy passengers.

It was nice to do something creative that wasn’t creative in the same way as my knitting.  I based the lettering off of a coloring sheet the hostess was giving the kids.  But I didn’t like the cartoony type of train they included, so I decided to do something stylized, a bit simpler, but more accurate to the train we were actually on.

Train picture.  Note the texture to the gravel in the tracks.  And the logo both on the front and side of the train.

Almost right after our Train/Yosemite trip, we headed to the farm.  I took with me Barbara Walker’s set of stitch dictionaries, which I had bought as a treat to myself and then hadn’t read at all.  At the farm I finally picked but my knitting and crochet tools, and I began to swatch from the books.  And finally, after a near unheard of two-week hiatus, I began knitting again.  More importantly, I began sketching and coming up with ideas.

Just before we left for the farm I printed out all the design calls I knew were coming up in the next four weeks, and I brought them with me to the farm.  And on the sheets of paper, I began sketching and generating ideas for the design calls.

I was so relieved.

It turns out I just needed some rest.  In a very real way, I needed a vacation from my job… which meant, in a strange way, I needed a vacation from my hobby.

Now, my batteries are charged and I’ve got a bunch of things I’m sending out, along with a bunch of things that I’m working on my own.

Summer Camp!

Applying the color to the fiber with sponges.

This week is the first week of several camps that I’m teaching through Montgomery County College.  The camp, titled “String Theory” is all about using string in various crafty ways: the children learn to knit, sew, spin and dye yarn.

This session maxed out with 12 children have been absolute rockstars.  In the 9 short hours we’ve had together thus far, they’ve got a project bag half finished, have created their first yarn, and have gotten several inches of knitting done.  It’s pretty impressive.

The hot microwaved fiber, cooling in the sink.

Today was our messy day, and we spent the first part of the afternoon using vinegar, water and food coloring to dye their own spinning wool.  This evening, as I write this post, I’m ferrying their fiber to a from the microwave to fix the dye.  My hands are covered in red, blues and greens which I doubt will fade by the weekend.  I’m exhausted, but happy.

All the girl’s dyed fiber, getting ready to be dried.

It’s so great to be working with children in a camp setting again.  Some of the girls were so excited by what they were doing they went out and got their own supplies so they could practice at home.  I love teaching children – both because I think skills like these should be passed on, and because of their sheer excitement over learning new things.

Look how vibrant the colors turned out!